1. Know your maintenance cycles. Many buildings need tuckpointing upkeep every 50 to 60 years.
2. Match the mortar. New mortar must match as carefully as possible in color, consistency, and elevation. Using too much Portland cement in the mix produces tough mortars, which can harm old structures.
3. Never ever grind out joints. Only scrubby mortar should be removed. If someone tells you otherwise, run.
4. Never ever utilize sealants. Sealants trap moisture, compounding problems throughout freeze/thaw cycles.
5. Change in kind. Damaged masonry systems should be changed whole or through Dutchmen of the exact same material. Spaces filled with putty do not last.
-- Jacob Arndt, Conservation Consultant, Architectural Stone Carver
Radiators
6. Do not throttle a one-pipe steam radiator The steam and condensate need to share that confined space. Keep the valve either totally open or completely closed to prevent water hammering and spraying air vents.
7. Develop a best pitch. One-pipe steam radiators should pitch towards the supply valve. Use 2 checkers under radiator feet-- they're the ideal shape and size.
8. Gain control. Thermostatic radiator valves are a great way to zone any radiator and save fuel. Hot-water and two-pipe steam radiators get them on the supply side; one-pipe steam radiators get them in between the radiator and the air vent.
Old radiator.
( Picture: Sylvia Gashi-Silver).
9. Get a terrific surface. Pros concur that sandblasting followed by powder coating offers the best, long-lasting, non-sticky finish-- but don't try this at home.
10. Don't stress over fires. Even with steam heat, a radiator gets only about half as hot as the temperature level needed to kindle paper, so you can rest simple.
-- Dan Holohan, Author, The Lost Art of Steam Heating.
Woodworking.
11. Use heartwood. Heartwood is constantly the most disease-resistant. Sapwood of the majority of types need to never ever be used.
12. Rift or quarter-grain cuts are best. These cuts are the most steady. Flat grain typically expands and contracts seasonally at twice the rate of quartered stock.
13. Set up plain sawn lumber with the heart side up. Flat lumber will wear better with the heart facing up. If there's cupping, the edges will stay flat, and only the center will hump a little.
14. Discover to utilize hand tools. The majority of historic woodwork was produced montclairroofingcontracting.com/victorian-home-restoration/ by hand tools, and many industrial millwork (late 19th century and after) was set up with them. Historical woodwork finishes produced with hand planes can't be reproduced by modern makers like sanders.
15. Use standard joinery. Part repairs need to be used standard joinery rather of non-historic methods like a wholesale epoxy casting of a missing part.
-- Robert Adam, Founder and Senior Consultant, Preservation Carpentry Department, North Bennet Street School.
Slate Roofing, remodeling old homes.
Slate roofing on a turret, renovating old homes.
Slate roof on a turret. (Image: Nathan Winter).
16. Determine your slate.To properly care for your slate roofing system, find out what type of slate it is. Just as you can't fix a Chevy with Ford parts, you need to never ever utilize New York red slate on a Pennsylvania gray slate roofing system.
17. Comprehend your roofing's longevity. If your roof just has 100 years of longevity and is 95 years of ages, it's not worth sinking cash into. However a roofing with 200 years of durability that's 75 years old is a young Montclair Home Restoration roofing that should be highly valued and properly preserved.
18. Check your roof routinely. A minimum of once a year, walk your house (use field glasses if essential) and take a look at your roof. If you see missing, broken, or sliding slates, or flashing that looks suspect, call your slater.
19. Shop around for quality. Excellent slaters are out there, however you need to search for them. It deserves the effort to have someone who genuinely understands what he's doing.