1. Know your maintenance cycles. Many structures require tuckpointing upkeep every 50 to 60 years.
2. Match the mortar. New mortar must match as carefully as possible in color, consistency, and elevation. Using too much Portland cement in the mix develops tough mortars, which can harm old structures.
3. Never ever grind out joints. Just shabby mortar needs to be removed. If somebody tells you otherwise, run.
4. Never ever use sealers. Sealants trap wetness, compounding problems during freeze/thaw cycles.
5. Replace in kind. Damaged masonry units must be replaced whole or via Dutchmen of the exact same material. Voids filled with putty do not last.
-- Jacob Arndt, Conservation Expert, Architectural Stone Carver
Radiators
6. Do not throttle a one-pipe steam radiator The steam and condensate need to share that restricted space. Keep the valve either fully open or fully near to prevent water hammering and squirting air vents.
7. Produce an ideal pitch. One-pipe steam radiators need to pitch toward the supply valve. Usage 2 checkers under radiator feet-- they're the perfect sizes and shape.
8. Gain control. Thermostatic radiator valves are a fantastic way to zone any radiator and save fuel. Hot-water and two-pipe steam radiators get them on the supply side; one-pipe steam radiators get them in between the radiator and the air vent.
Old radiator.
( Photo: Sylvia Gashi-Silver).
9. Get a great finish. Pros agree that sandblasting followed by powder finish provides the very best, long-lasting, non-sticky surface-- however don't attempt this at home.
10. Don't stress over fires. Even with steam heat, a radiator gets only about half as hot as the temperature level needed to kindle paper, so you can rest simple.
-- Dan Holohan, Author, The Lost Art of Steam Heating.
Woodworking.
11. Usage heartwood. Heartwood is always the most disease-resistant. Sapwood of the majority of types need to never ever be utilized.
12. Rift or quarter-grain cuts are best. These cuts are the most stable. Flat grain often expands and contracts seasonally at two times the http://www.bbc.co.uk/search?q=Montclair Victorian Restoration rate of quartered stock.
13. Set up plain sawn lumber with the heart side up. Flat lumber will use better with the heart facing up. If there's cupping, the edges will remain flat, and just the center will hump somewhat.
14. Learn to use hand tools. A lot of historical woodwork was produced by hand tools, and a lot of industrial millwork (late 19th century and after) was set up with them. Historic woodwork surfaces produced with hand aircrafts can't be replicated by contemporary makers like sanders.
15. Usage standard joinery. Element repair work must be made using traditional joinery rather of non-historic methods like a wholesale epoxy casting of a missing part.

-- Robert Adam, Creator and Senior Advisor, Preservation Carpentry Department, North Bennet Street School.
Slate Roofing, refurbishing old homes.
Slate roofing system on a turret, renovating old homes.
Slate roof on a turret. (Photo: Nathan Winter).
16. Identify your slate.To correctly look after your slate roofing system, learn what type of slate it is. Simply as you can't repair a Chevy with Ford parts, before and after victorian house renovation Montclair you should never utilize New york city red slate on a Pennsylvania gray slate roofing system.
17. Comprehend your roof's durability. If your roofing system only has 100 years of longevity and is 95 years of ages, it's not worth sinking money into. But a roofing system with 200 years of durability that's 75 years of ages is a young roofing system that must be highly valued and appropriately maintained.
18. Examine your roofing routinely. A minimum of once a year, walk your home (use field glasses if essential) and look at your roofing. If you see missing out on, broken, or moving slates, or flashing that looks suspect, call your slater.
19. Look around for quality. Great slaters are out there, but you need to search for them. It deserves the effort to have someone who really knows what he's doing.