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1. Know your maintenance cycles. A lot of structures require tuckpointing maintenance every 50 to 60 years.

2. Match the mortar. New mortar ought to match as closely as possible in color, consistency, and elevation. Using too much Portland cement in the mix produces hard mortars, which can damage old structures.

3. Never grind out joints. Only deteriorated mortar must be eliminated. If someone tells you otherwise, run.

4. Never utilize sealers. Sealers trap moisture, intensifying issues during freeze/thaw cycles.

5. Change in kind. Harmed masonry systems need to be replaced whole or through Dutchmen of the same product. Spaces filled with putty do not last.

-- Jacob Arndt, Preservation Consultant, Architectural Stone Carver

Radiators

6. Do not throttle a one-pipe steam radiator The steam and condensate need to share that confined space. Keep the valve either completely open or fully near to prevent water hammering and squirting air vents.

7. Produce a perfect pitch. One-pipe steam radiators should pitch towards the supply valve. Use two checkers under radiator feet-- they're the ideal shape and size.

8. Gain control. Thermostatic radiator valves are a fantastic method to zone any radiator and conserve fuel. Hot-water and two-pipe steam radiators get them on the supply side; one-pipe steam radiators get them in between the radiator and the air vent.

Old radiator.

( Picture: Sylvia Gashi-Silver).

9. Get a fantastic finish. Pros agree that sandblasting followed by powder coating gives the very best, long-lasting, non-sticky finish-- however do not try this at home.

10. Don't worry about fires. Even with steam heat, a radiator gets only about half as hot as the temperature required to kindle paper, so you can rest easy.

-- Dan Holohan, Author, The Lost Art of Steam Heating.

Woodworking.

11. Use heartwood. Heartwood is constantly the most disease-resistant. Sapwood of many types must never be utilized.

12. Rift or quarter-grain cuts are best. These cuts are the most stable. Flat grain frequently broadens and contracts seasonally at two times the rate of quartered stock.

13. Install plain sawn lumber with the heart before and after victorian house renovation Montclair side up. Flat lumber will wear better with the heart facing up. If there's cupping, the edges will stay flat, and only the center will hump somewhat.

14. Learn to use hand tools. Most historical woodwork was produced by hand tools, and a lot of machine-made millwork (late 19th century and after) was set up with them. Historic woodwork finishes produced with hand airplanes can't be reproduced by modern machines like sanders.

15. Use standard joinery. Component repairs ought to be made using standard joinery rather of non-historic approaches like a wholesale epoxy casting of a missing part.

-- Robert Adam, Founder and Senior Advisor, Preservation Carpentry Department, North Bennet Street School.

Slate Roofing, renovating old homes.

Slate roofing system on a turret, refurbishing old homes.

Slate roofing system on a turret. (Picture: Nathan Winter).

16. Determine your slate.To correctly look after your slate roof, find out what kind of slate it is. Just as you can't repair a Chevy with Ford parts, you ought to never ever use New York red slate on a Pennsylvania gray slate roofing system.

17. Comprehend your roofing's longevity. If your roofing only has 100 years of durability and is 95 years of ages, it's not worth sinking cash into. But a roof with 200 years of longevity that's 75 years of ages is a young roofing system that must be extremely valued and appropriately maintained.

18. Examine your roofing frequently. At least once a year, walk around your house (usage binoculars if needed) and take a look at your roof. If you see missing, broken, or sliding slates, or flashing that looks suspect, call your slater.

19. Shop around for quality. Excellent slaters are out there, but you have to search for them. It's worth the effort to have someone who genuinely understands what he's doing.