1. Know your maintenance cycles. Many buildings need tuckpointing upkeep every 50 to 60 years.
2. Match the mortar. New mortar must match as carefully as possible in color, consistency, and elevation. Using excessive Portland cement in the mix develops hard mortars, which can harm old structures.
3. Never grind out joints. Just deteriorated mortar ought to be gotten rid of. If someone tells you otherwise, run.
4. Never use sealers. Sealants trap moisture, intensifying problems throughout freeze/thaw cycles.
5. Change in kind. Damaged masonry systems should be replaced whole or by means of Dutchmen of the exact same product. Spaces filled with putty don't last.
-- Jacob Arndt, Conservation Expert, Architectural Stone Carver
Radiators
6. Don't throttle a one-pipe steam radiator The steam and condensate need to share that restricted space. Keep the valve either completely open or completely near avoid water hammering and spraying air vents.
7. Produce a best pitch. One-pipe steam radiators need to pitch towards the supply valve. Usage two checkers under radiator feet-- they're the best sizes and shape.
8. Gain control. Thermostatic radiator valves are a terrific method to zone any radiator and conserve fuel. Hot-water and two-pipe steam radiators get them on the supply side; one-pipe steam radiators get them in between the radiator and the air vent.
Old radiator.
( Picture: Sylvia Gashi-Silver).
9. Get a terrific finish. Pros concur that sandblasting followed by powder finishing gives the best, lasting, non-sticky surface-- however don't attempt this in renovating a victorian house Montclair the house.
10. Don't stress over fires. Even with steam heat, a radiator gets just about half as hot as the temperature needed to kindle paper, so you can rest easy.
-- Dan Holohan, Author, The Lost Art of Steam Heating.
Woodworking.
11. Use heartwood. Heartwood is constantly the most disease-resistant. Sapwood of most types should never be used.
12. Rift or quarter-grain cuts are best. These cuts are the most steady. Flat grain frequently expands and contracts seasonally at two times the rate of quartered stock.
13. Set up plain sawn lumber with the heart side up. Flat lumber will use better with the heart dealing with up. If there's cupping, the edges will remain flat, and only the center will hump a little.
14. Learn to utilize hand tools. Many historic woodwork was produced by hand tools, and a lot of machine-made millwork (late 19th century and after) was set up with them. Historic woodwork finishes produced with hand planes can't be recreated by modern-day devices like sanders.
15. Use conventional joinery. Element repairs ought to be made using standard joinery instead of non-historic techniques like a wholesale epoxy casting of a missing part.
-- Robert Adam, Founder and Senior Advisor, Conservation Carpentry Department, North Bennet Street School.
Slate Roof, refurbishing old homes.
Slate roofing system on a turret, refurbishing old houses.
Slate roof on a turret. (Image: Nathan Winter).
16. Identify your slate.To correctly look after your slate roofing, learn what kind of slate it is. Simply as you can't repair a Chevy with Ford parts, you should never utilize New york city red slate on a Pennsylvania gray slate roofing system.
17. Understand your roof's durability. If your roofing system just has 100 years of longevity and is 95 years of ages, it's unworthy sinking cash into. But a roofing system with 200 years of longevity that's 75 years of ages is a young roofing that must be extremely valued and correctly preserved.
18. Check your roofing regularly. At least when a year, walk around your house (use binoculars if required) and look at your roofing. If you see missing, broken, or sliding slates, or flashing that looks suspect, call your slater.
19. Shop around for quality. Good slaters are out there, however you need to search for them. It's worth the effort to have somebody who genuinely understands what he's doing.